Not all diamonds shine the same, and for good reason. There’s something undeniably compelling about a gem that seems to carry a past, even when it's newly cut. That’s the beauty of Old Mine diamonds. They don’t just sparkle, they softly glow, speaking to a by-gone era of craftsmanship and desire for unique personal expression.
Whether you're drawn to the look of vintage rings, searching for something that feels one-of-a-kind, or simply curious about why these antique-inspired stones are suddenly everywhere, we’re here to help. Old Mine diamonds are experiencing a major revival, so let’s explore what makes these stones so alluring from their long legacy to distinct visual features, and why it might be the perfect choice for your heirloom in the making.
Understanding Old Mine Diamonds
All diamonds begin as raw unpolished crystals. The captivating sparkle we associate with these beautiful gems is the result of a carefully planned mix of cutting and polishing. Facets, the flat, polished surfaces on a diamond are the result of this processing, and are the key to revealing a stone’s hidden brilliance.
These facets act like tiny mirrors, reflecting light as it enters and exits the diamond. Their arrangement has a large impact on the diamond’s appearance and character. Some faceting styles, like the modern brilliant cut, are designed to maximize sparkle by reflecting as much light as possible, while others, like the step cut, focus on creating striking geometric patterns and a more subtle shine.
All three engagement rings shown above are in stock - shop here.
Diamond cutting has a rich history shaped by centuries of craftsmanship and evolving ideas of what makes the perfect facet pattern. Old Mine diamonds are a beautiful example of this evolution. In fact, they are just one of many historical cut styles grouped under the umbrella term of “antique cuts.” A category that includes any diamond cut popularized before the early 1900s. This era came to a close with the introduction of the modern brilliant cut, developed by jeweler and mathematician Marcel Tolkowsky in 1919. Examples of other popular antique cuts include the Old European and Rose cut, each with its own legacy and individual charm.
Old Mine diamonds specifically, were developed in the early 1700s and remained popular through the late 1800s, especially during the Georgian and Victorian periods. The name began as a term to distinguish diamonds that originated from the older mines of India and Brazil before a major shift to sourcing in South Africa. Now, the label categorizes a very distinctive set of visual characteristics that the cut is cherished for.
The Unique Look of Old Mine Diamonds
Old Mine diamonds are visually iconic thanks to a blend of unmistakable identifiers that represents a specific craftsmanship. The cut reflects the tools, techniques, and aesthetic of the era it was popularized within.
Some of the most notable characteristics include:
“Cushion” Shape:
Often considered the predecessor of the modern cushion cut, the Old Mine cut typically appears on a soft square or rectangular shape with gently rounded corners. This is regarded as a timeless, elegant silhouette with romantic charm.
Funky Faceting:
Old Mine diamonds are known for their large, spready facets. At the time in history the old mine cut was popularized, diamonds were not commonplace day-wear. Originally the cut was designed to shine the most under candlelight, the fewer, broader facets were ideal for low-light evening settings.
In true antique stones, you’ll even notice a slightly uneven or asymmetrical faceting pattern which is a testament to their hand-crafted origin as hand-cutting was the predominant method of the time using basic tools.
Large, Open Culet:
Unlike modern brilliant cuts where the culet (the pointed facets on the bottom of a diamond) is closed and meant to be invisible, Old Mine diamonds feature a clearly visible culet. Typically appearing as a small circle or elongated bar shape when viewed from above. This feature adds even more distinctive personality to the cut.
Unique Proportions:
Old Mine diamonds typically have a taller crown pavilion which is the angled section on the top-half of a stone, a smaller top-most section called the table, and a deeper bottom-half, or pavilion, than modern cuts. These proportions give the stone a rounded and fuller, more domed profile that contributes to its bespoke, crafted feel compared to the precise and optimized proportions of newer styles.
This combination of traits creates a diamond with a captivating blend of vintage intrigue, unique character, and enduring appeal that speaks to ancient and modern audiences alike.
Why Antique Cuts are Coming Back
Personalization and handcrafted artistry are highly valued today. Making it no surprise that antique diamond cuts, especially the Old Mine, are making a major comeback. Contemporary couples are drawn to stones that feel storied and soulful. Old Mine diamonds offer an authentic sense of history, character, and individuality that many find emotionally and personally meaningful for their own rings.
Photo via @taylorswift on Instagram
They’re also gaining major attention in pop culture. Taylor Swift’s iconic recent engagement to Travis Kelce featured a ring with a striking 10+ carat elongated Old Mine diamond, a choice that set socials swooning. Similarly, actress and fashion icon Zendaya’s ring from Tom Holland debuted earlier this year on the golden globe’s red-carpet, and is also rumored to be an east-west set Old Mine cushion. These high-profile rings are not just viral moments but also signposts of a shifting desire for, inspiring a whole wave of new interest in Old Mine diamonds.
Another reason for the rise? These cuts pair beautifully with both lab-grown and naturally mined diamonds. Old Mine diamonds are no longer only attainable through increasingly rare, unattainable antiques. Contemporary gemcutters have adapted machinery typically reserved for modern cut styles to produce all of the beloved characteristics of the old mine diamond. Some have even built upon the style to apply it to non-traditional shapes such as the oval and pear diamond shapes. Now, a historic old mine cut applied to a new stone delivers the best of both worlds: a fresh, ethical option wrapped in timeless beauty.
Shown above is our In-Stock Antique Cut Lab-Grown Moval, available for purchase in-store or with our online Engagement Ring Builder.
Whether it's for the look, the story, or the desire for something truly one-of-a-kind, people are embracing the old mine diamond, not just as a passing trend, but as a personal and intentional choice for their engagement ring.
View Old Mine Diamonds at Hitched
At Hitched, we celebrate the beauty of Old Mine diamonds in all their forms. Whether you're drawn to a more traditional look or prefer a refined, contemporary take, we have the ability to source the perfect stone that reflects your unique style. Looking for something specific? Visit one of our showrooms in Philadelphia, D.C., or Chicago to meet with an engagement specialist and we’ll help you find *the one.*